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Téranga Nature

SENEGAL-TOUBACOUTA : CARNET DE ROUTE ENVIRONNEMENTAL (Une Mangrove de 7000 hectares, une île de 3000 ans, des Baobabs tombeaux)

SENEGAL-TOUBACOUTA : CARNET DE ROUTE ENVIRONNEMENTAL (Une Mangrove de 7000 hectares, une île de 3000 ans, des Baobabs tombeaux)

Toubacouta est un village du Sine Saloum, distant de Dakar de 235 Km, surtout si l’on opte pour le trajet Dakar-Fatick-Kaolack. Dans cette localité se niche une Aire Marine Protégée (AMP). Le Bamboung.

Dans le cadre d’une formation sur les procédures de création et de gestion des AMP,  nous nous sommes imprégnés du Bamboung. Cette Aire Marine Protégée (AMP) nichée à Toubacouta a une superficie de sept mille (7000) hectares, avec plusieurs espèces cohabitant dans la Mangrove.

A bord d’une barque de 40 chevaux, le périple dirigé par des éco gardes, nous mène tout d’abord à l’île de Jorom Bou Mak, ralliée après une quarantaine de minutes de navigation.

« Jorom mou bak », du nom de l’île doit son appellation au plus grand nombre d’amas coquillers de la localité. C’est la première sensation de cet endroit très méconnu des populations sénégalaises. Le Conservateur du Parc, le Commandant Cheikh Niang  de  raconter : « Si vous voyez des monticules, sachez que ce sont des tombeaux car on y enterrait les habitants de l’île. Maintenant, la taille des tombeaux dépendait de l’importance des morts ».

Sa particularité est qu’elle pilule d’amas coquillers, avec une végétation touffue et les scientifiques affirment que cette partie de l’île a été exploitée entre le 7ème et 13ème siècle. Ce qui veut dire que Jorom bou mak date de trois mille (3000) ans. « C’est 3000 ans d’histoire où beaucoup de groupes sont passés par là. Et d’après certaines fouilles, bien entendu archéologiques, on y a trouvé es ossements humains et d’autres vestiges exposés à l’Ifan. Du fer aussi a été trouvé. L’île est inhabitée, mais fait 400 m de long au Sud et 210 m à l’Ouest avec 12 m de hauteur pour une superficie de 10 hectares », explique le gestionnaire du patrimoine au niveau national, Mayécor Diouf.

 Des Baobabs servaient de tombeaux

Le commandant argumente ses explications en montrant des baobabs qui étaient creusés de l’intérieur où on pouvait apercevoir des ossements humains. « Ces baobabs qui ont des ouvertures servaient à accueillir les griots morts. Dans cette société, l’on disait qu’enterrer des griots avec des rois portait malheur », révèle ce dernier.

L’île montre une scène féérique avec des arbres fruitiers comme le « néw », le « ditakh », le « solom » ou encore le « bouye » qui tapissent le sol herbacé, parce que mûrs. Les visiteurs s’en donnent à cœur à joie.

Pour détendre l’atmosphère le conservateur de lancer : « ceux qui ont consommé les fruits vont rendre compte aux propriétaires la nuit ».

Rien que l’exploitation de la paille dans cette île dans l’année rapporte près de 2 millions FCFA.

D’où la réflexion du capitaine Kanté sur les retombées financières : «Au-delà de l’exploitation touristique, il nous faut penser aux activités génératrices de revenus comme le maraichage, la vente de la paille, le bois entres autres secteurs ».

Dans cette perspective, le affirme le sous-préfet de Toubacouta projette une rencontre  entre toutes les composantes pour améliorer le cadre d’autant que l’île est inhabitée, mais exploitée par les hôteliers, de nuit comme de jour en y amenant des touristes qui payent de folles sommes pour la visiter. « On va les convier à notre table et trouver le meilleur cadre d’exploitation. En ce qui nous concerne, on va essayer de construire un débarcadère à Jorom bou mack pour mettre à l’aise les touristes », indique Amath Saïko Ly.

Mirador, ces éco gardes qui risquent leur vie …

Cap ensuite au lieu de surveillance communément appelé Mirador qui est du reste très imposant avec son « R+2+balcon ». Il est en fer recouvert de paille pour empêcher la rouille causée par le sel marin de la mangrove. Le mirador a remplacé les anciennes reliques qui étaient en bois comme le rônier. Il permet aux surveillants, au nombre de six (6) qui se relayent par deux (2) jours, de guetter les moindres faits et gestes de personnes qui sillonnent les environs. Mais le mirador présente un réel danger pour ceux qui le fréquentent car il n’a pas une bonne assise et ne peut supporter plusieurs personnes. Même les surveillants sont exposés car les remparts de protection ne le sont que de nom.

Selon Gorgui Basse alias Koutoubo, en place depuis 2002 au Mirador, les conditions de travail sont très difficiles : « On se plaint moins avec les 7000 francs cfa payés tous les deux jours. On a démarré avec une pièce de 100 francs cfa pour le transport. Ce métier est dangereux car on risque nos vies. Lors des événements de 2008 où un braconnier a trouvé la mort, j’ai fait des jours de prison alors que je n’y étais pour rien. Nous manquons cruellement de moyens, matériels, logistiques et autres. Nous avons une dotation de dix litres de carburant, pour une pirogue de 15 chevaux, pour couvrir une distance de plusieurs milliers de kilomètres. Si les trafiquants ont des bateaux plus puissants que les nôtres, la bataille est perdue d’avance », explique le surveillant, la soixantaine passée. Le vieux Koutoubo explique que même ses collègues de la Guinée Bissau sont mieux lotis en logistiques alors que ces derniers étaient venus au Sénégal pour s’imprégner de leur expérience en la matière.

N’étant pas assez armés, les surveillants ont un rôle de relais. Ils ne font que transmettre des renseignements et les agents interviennent. Et pourtant les affrontements peuvent être d’une rare violence car les braconniers sont armés jusqu’aux dents.

Cette étape, la plus longue, après une heure de navigation amène l’équipe au campement de Bamboung qui est niché dans une mangrove truffée d’arbres fruitiers qui deviennent de plus en plus rares dans les villes comme le « New », « Solom », « Benkhal », entre autres fruits exotiques.

Beuleup ndao

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