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Reportage – Erosion côtière : L’hydre qui ne cesse d’engloutir les côtes sénégalaises

Reportage – Erosion côtière : L’hydre qui ne cesse d’engloutir les côtes sénégalaises

La question de l’érosion côtière cristallise les débats depuis  l’émergence des effets du  changement climatique. A chaque année son lot de dégâts. Cette menace de premier plan pour les pays africains entraine, la disparition des populations, la salinisation des sols, la perte de terre, l’effondrement du patrimoine, et des refugiés climatiques. Avec ce bilan, la science continue de soutenir des projections alarmistes. Le dernier  Rapport du GIEC (Groupe des experts sur l’évolution du climat), paru en septembre 2019 sur les Océans et la Cryosphère en est la parfaite illustration. Dans son scenario le plus optimiste, il statue : « qu’avec un réchauffement maintenu à + 2°C, le niveau marin devrait augmenter d’au moins 59 centimètres d’ici 2100. » Alors qu’il était de l’ordre de 43 centimètres en 2014. Dans ce contexte d’incertitude, le littoral sénégalais est exposé et subit les assauts quotidiens de l’atlantique.

Il est 14 heures aux abords de la corniche Est, à 500 mètres de la Mosquée de la Divinité, des immeubles pieds dans l’eau constituent le décor. Au bas des bâtisses, des déchets de chantiers, Restes de tubes orange, briques cassées et autres pierres stériles témoignent de

L’agression permanente des activités humaines. « Ces fondations provoquent l’effondrement d’une grande partie de la terre. » explique Daouda trouvé sur place. Il se présente comme un membre du GIE commun des pêcheurs de Ouakam et responsable de la sécurité du site. « Nous avons tracé les allées avec l’aide des autorités locales, et désherbé les espaces ; car ces lieux servaient de refuge aux personnes mal intentionnées ». Pointant du doigt une roche, et voulant ressortir le recul du trait de côte, il observe que : « Nos parents avaient l’habitude de se mettre là-bas  pour pêcher. Maintenant ce n’est plus possible avec l’avancée de la mer. » Sur notre chemin pour rejoindre thiawlène  à 25 km de Dakar dans le département de Rufisque, nous avons fait un détour aux alentours de la corniche Ouest. Précisément  à la Place du Souvenir, tout à fait au Nord. Un pont naturel fait de roche marine reçoit la visite de couples, ou d’étudiants  à la recherche d’inspiration. La plupart préfère garder l’anonymat. Un cadre poétique ou les rayons de soleil accompagnent le battement des vagues. Amenant petit à petit des morceaux de terre.  Le pourtour des hôtels et autres établissements environnants, est jonché de grosses pierres pour se protéger de phénomènes extrêmes.

Il est 16 heures, nous voilà à Thiawlène. Contrée tristement célèbre, à cause de son cimetière engloutit à moitié, par une houle de tempête en mai 2014. Aujourd’hui, « la mer est calme, ce qui était un espace d’opportunité pour les habitants, est vu comme un monstre à deux visages, capable du pire. », témoigne Djibril Ba. La soixantaine, il habite les lieux depuis 59 ans. Air décontracté, assis sur un banc de l’espace public, le vieux arbore un t-shirt blanc et un pantalon « wax ». Il nous certifie : « c’est sous mes yeux que la moitié de notre cimetière a été englouti. Ce que nous vivons est indescriptible. »

Revenant sur la digue frontale (730 m de long et 23 m large) réalisée par l’Etat comme mesure d’urgence, il reconnait que l’aménagement « ralentit les assauts. Mais la hauteur des marées accompagnée de tempête ne peuvent pas être arrêtées par le mur qui est très bas pour nous protéger. Il y a un mois, un phénomène similaire s’est produit. L’eau a dépassé le mur pour envahir nos maisons, inondant toute la promenade et l’espace  public. Heureusement cette fois-ci, le mur des cimetières est assez solide, sinon ce qui reste allait être avalé par les vagues. Tout  ce que nous souhaitons c’est d’être relogés ailleurs, car le fait de nous consoler avec des sacs de riz ou de cartons d’huile, n’est pas une solution pérenne. »

Awa Ba, est femme au foyer, nostalgique, elle nous replonge dans le temps où la plage était sableuse. « Nous habitions là où se situent les pirogues, à l’époque, la pêche était florissante.  Présentement nos maris rentrent souvent sans le moindre poisson, alors que toute notre économie locale dépend de la pêche. »

L’autre calvaire à Thiawlène reste le manque d’assainissement. « Aujourd’hui, même pour se débarrasser des eaux usées et autres déchets ménagers, il faut marcher des kilomètres. Nous n’avons pas de système d’assainissement, ce qui constitue un véritable calvaire pour nous les femmes. »

Aujourd’hui la mer est clémente.  Pas de débordement de vagues, ni de situation de panique. Le bruit des vagues, accompagne le chant de victoire des jeunes footballeurs sur le long de la promenade de la digue. L’accalmie offerte par le monstre aux deux visages permet des civilités entre voisins. Car ce qui semble ordinaire pour le sens commun, est souvent un luxe dans ce quartier de Rufisque.

Par Pape Mbor NDIAYE

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