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Au coeur de la Médina de Dakar, les façades se changent en musée à ciel ouvert

Au coeur de la Médina de Dakar, les façades se changent en musée à ciel ouvert

Ce musée-là se visite comme aucun autre, derrière un guide naviguant en rollers de l’une à l’autre des fresques murales qui colorent de bleus et de rouges les murs ternes de ce quartier de Dakar. Au milieu des gamins tapant le ballon sous les maillots de foot de toutes les équipes du monde, c’est un musée informel à l’image de la métropole africaine : lumineux, malicieux ou revendicatif, vivant. Et en expansion.

Visages d’enfants, motifs géométriques ou animaliers aux inspirations naïves ou résolument contemporaines… A l’instigation de l’association Yataal Art, des artistes venus de partout couvrent en ordre dispersé depuis quelques années les murs de dizaines de maisons de la Médina, créant des instants suspendus dans ce vaste quartier populaire et grouillant qui n’en connaît guère.

Mamadou Boye Diallo, président de Yataal Art qui joue aussi les guides en rollers, appelle cela “le musée à ciel ouvert”. Yataal Art veut dire “élargir l’art” en wolof, langue locale, et l’association comme le musée ont vu le jour pour rendre l’art accessible “à tous de l’autre côté de la rue“, et pas seulement aux “gars en costume-cravate” qui fréquentent les galeries.

Comme l’explique Mamadou Boye Diallo, casquette et lunettes de soleil en forme de coeur, il s’agit aussi de conserver son âme à la Médina et de sauver de la destruction les anciennes maisons soumises à la pression immobilière.

Street artists

Ici, au coin d’une rue poussiéreuse où une carriole propose des pastèques ventrues, un dénommé Marto a peint un chat 10 fois plus grand que nature qui attend nonchalamment qu’un homme se laisse appâter par une tapette amorcée avec des billets de banque. Là, c’est un poing brandi sur un bleu hypnotique à côté d’une des innombrables dibiteries servant la viande grillée aux menuisiers du secteur.

Au départ en 2010, c’est Mamadou Boye Diallo et quelques autres artistes locaux qui avaient peinturluré un mur pour une fête. Puis Yataal Art a fait venir les “street artists”. Désormais, ces derniers demandent eux-mêmes à venir, assure Mélodie Petit, vice-présidente de l’association. Ils recherchent un lieu et adhérent au projet, assure-t-elle. “C’est pas un contrat avec une société d’autoroute ou une enseigne commerciale, c’est vraiment du contact humain“.

Yataal Art fait l’intermédiaire entre les artistes et les occupants d’une de ces maisons caractéristiques de la colonisation française, de plain pied avec la rue. On demande la permission d’utiliser une façade, on applique la matière et, souvent, on partage le repas avec la famille pour toute rétribution, rapporte Mamadou Boye Diallo.

La Médina s’éveille

Yataal Art prospère sur l’histoire de la Médina, refouloir colonial et matrice artistique. La Médina est née en 1914 dans une dépression humide quand les Français ont déplacé là les populations noires en se servant du “prétexte sanitaire” d’une épidémie de peste pour les éloigner du Plateau, le quartier du pouvoir, rappelle l’historien Ibrahima Thioub.

La Médina a conservé une identité, entretenue par les migrations et propice à la création, explique-t-il. Elle a vu grandir le musicien Youssou N’Dour, qui en a fait une chanson. Le peintre Kre M’Baye y avait son atelier où sa nièce Fatoumata Coulibaly et d’autres moniteurs reçoivent des dizaines d’enfants pour badigeonner du papier et les éloigner de la rue.

La nuit, quand le Plateau somnolait, la Médina s’éveillait“, glisse Ibrahima Thioub. Sans s’appeler encore “street art”, la pratique de la fresque murale existe ici depuis presque aussi longtemps que ce quartier et d’autres de Dakar, souligne Marième Ba, secrétaire générale de la Biennale de l’art africain contemporain.

L’exode rural des années 70, la passion inspirée par le football, l’action des associations de quartier ont stimulé la production. L’activité observée aujourd’hui “marque le bouillonnement en cours dans la capitale et ailleurs au Sénégal, dit-elle.

Patrimoine sacrifié

Mais la Médina, dont “les habitants se connaissaient tous, avec un attachement commun à des valeurs fortes“, change, dit le sociologue Djiby Diakhate. De grandes enseignes, des banques ouvrent sur une de ses principales avenues. “Les loyers sont de plus en plus élevés, les nostalgiques ne s’y retrouvent plus“.

Les vieilles maisons sont sacrifiées à une “bande d’élitistes qui viennent ici faire leurs buildings“, s’émeut le président de Yataal Art. Le ravalement “street art” des bâtisses décrépites doit les sauver, avec leurs occupants. “On a commencé petit à petit. Maintenant, on a près de 90 fresques murales“.

Les touristes se font plus nombreux, “on tourne même des clips“, s’enflamme-t-il. Mais attention, “on veut garder notre originalité, on n’est pas dans TripAdvisor“.

AFP

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